s00pr kr33m, 5.13
The Slab, West Face
Application Date: June 15, 2010
Public Meeting/Vote: 7:30 pm, June 23, The Spot Bouldering Gym…all are invited.
Information from the applicant: The proposed route, s00pr kr33m, climbs the radically overhanging panel on the right center of the Slab’s West Face, 60 feet left (north) of the existing climb Undertow and 35 feet right (south) of Pen 15. It takes a straight-up plumb line via ever-steepening tan and maroon rock. A moderate (5.4) slab or an easy walking traverse along a ledge lead to the start of the climbing proper: 5.9 climbing moving left into a right-facing corner and bulge (5.10+) to a small stance below the headwall. From here, the middle third of the climb goes at sustained 5.12c to an incut flake that gives little opportunity for resting, given the 30-degree overhanging angle. The final, very steep headwall culminates on a sustained, gymnastic crux on small pinches and underclings before reaching better holds that lead up and over the lip of the wall, to an obvious finishing stance. The pitch is 34 meters long, and requires a 70-meter rope.
This is a physical, very overhanging addition on solid rock to the back (west) side of the Slab, reminiscent in consistency and angle to the Eldorado Canyon classic Your Mother. This line takes the most logical path, and the best stone, on this right-central part of the wall and required minimal cleaning. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines.
The climb took some directional toproping gear of very poor reliability. Thus, throughout the climb, the applicants propose to use 10 full-stainless half-inch bolts to a double-bolt stainless-steel ring-and-chain anchor at the lip of the wall. Both applicants have freed the climb.
The staging area is a flat piece of ground in the trees below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
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