The proposed climb, Tufa Route, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has three traditional/toprope climbs and one sport route, Choose Life (August 2012), which shares the same start—first three bolts—as Tufa Route. Where Choose Life heads left along the large left-leaning black streak past its third bolt, Tufa Route heads straight up an extruded tufa feature/brown water streak that splits into twin tufa features to the top of the wall. Choose Life and Tufa Route would be twenty-five feet apart at their top anchors and do not share any holds once they diverge, to move farther and farther apart. There would be ten new lead bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the top of the wall, making for 13 lead bolts  total (counting the first three on Choose Life).

Tufa Route features a very difficult, thin, crimpy boulder problem past the proposed fourth bolt to sustained climbing on laybacks and sloping pods, followed by a good rest in a heart-shaped hueco at mid-height. From the rest it moves right along the right of the twin tufas on good holds that quickly diminish to sloping sidepulls interspersed with the occasional crimp. The climbing is sustained, technical, and bouldery all the way to the final two bolts, where the difficulty backs off to 5.12/12+. There are multiple hard cruxes throughout the climb, which is continuously overhanging with only the one rest. The rock is good throughout, though due to the difficult of staying into the overhanging (110-degree) wall on toprope to clean, a few small friable flakes will need to be removed when equipping the climb.

Tufa Route, which shares the first three bolts with the existing climb Choose Life. Where Choose Life heads left (left arrow), Tufa Route climbs straight up (right arrow) past ten more bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall. An original anchor, about eight feet to the right was installed as reconnaissance for the climb in the late 1980s. To keep the line on the tufa proper (for purity of line) and for better rope management, the anchors should be relocated up and left about eight feet, and the old anchor bolts unscrewed and the holes patched.

All reconnaissance work that can be done has, including inspection on rappel and on toprope. The top of the route had anchors installed in the late 1980s, before the bolting ban, by Colin Lantz. Lantz never returned to attempt or equip the climb, so it saw no activity until 2012 though the anchor bolts have remained. There is zero potential for natural gear, and the route would need to be bolted to be viable as a lead climb. Also, the anchors need to be moved up and left about eight feet, both for purity of line and for better rope management when lowering. Lantz’ existing anchors would then be removed and the holes patched.

Due to the severely overhanging nature of the rock, a consistent 110-degree wall, and the severity of the sequences (small size of the holds) it was difficult to stay in in multiple sections and work every move. There were also only five spots for marginal directional gear in 85 feet, which made it hard to stay in to the rock, though the applicants did their best. About half the climb has been done free, where you could stay in near the directional gear, and  the applicants are confident upon inspecting and grabbing all the available holds that the route provides enough features to be freed in its entirety.

A view of the lower/central south face of Seal Rock, with numbers indicating the climbs. Route 1: Jade Gate (5.11b, trad); Route 2: Skin Flute (5.12a, toprope/trad); Route 3: Primate (5.13, toprope/trad); Route 4: Choose Life (5.14- sport), which shares the first three bolts with the proposed climb, Tufa Route.

The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.14- sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life/Tufa Route is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back on the big rock and gully below the climb. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown, gravely soil with minimal/no vegetation. The area is flat and well contained with little to no potential for erosion. There is one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.  As mentioned, the staging area is the same as for the existing climb Choose Life, and no additional staging impact will be created by the addition of the Tufa Route.

Staging area for Choose Life/Tufa Route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Honey Badger 5.12+/13-, west face of Overhang Rock

The proposed climb, Honey Badger, takes a more or less direct line up the vertical to overhanging west face of Overhang Rock ~80 feet right of the existing climb Snake Watching, punching through a series of tiered roofs to a wild and steep finish at the top of the wall. Like Snake Watching, Honey Badger is approximately 40 meters long and will require a midway anchor for lowering. The applicants propose to use 19 bolts total: 15 lead-protection bolts, as well as four additional bolts for the two anchors—a midway and a top anchor. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower purple band using good holds (5.10) at the top of the rock ramp leading to the broad ledge bisecting the west face of Overhang Rock. From there, the climb follows a steep arete, featuring 11+ moves on good edges, to a sloping ledge offering an almost no-hands rest, where the applicants will place a midway anchor. This first pitch will be five bolts long. From the ledge, the climb goes straight up the steep face, with engaging and technical climbing through a series of roofs to a good jug about two-thirds of the way up. Leaving the jug, one encounters the first of two distinct crux sections, with powerful moves on impeccable pockets and edges over a roof and up a steep, technical headwall to another jug. Big moves on amazing jugs lead you over the next few roof tiers to another, final 12/12+ boulder problem on crimps and sidepulls. This final pitch will be ten bolts long.

Honey Badger, overview of line, relative to the existing climb Snake Watching.

The applicants have put in several days of reconnaissance work. The initial reconnaissance consisted of constructing a gear anchor at the top of the wall and inspecting the route on rappel to determine the exact line. The applicants returned later and set up a toprope on the proposed climb, Honey Badger,using the same gear anchor. Both of the applicants have freed all of the individual sections on the climb but have not freed the line in its entirety; however, the applicants are confident that the climb goes free at the approximate grade of 5.12+/13-.

Start of Honey Badger and first five bolts. The midway anchor will be at Bolt 5 as shown in this photo.

The applicants propose using fifteen protection bolts, plus two additional two bolt anchors with rings-and-chain for the midway anchor and top anchor. There is a natural gear anchor available at the bottom of the climb for the belayer, and one opportunity for natural gear in the first fifteen feet of the climb, after which no natural protection is available. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length. Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement with only a few loose flakes that will require minor cleaning to make the route safe as a lead climb. The applicants have freed all the moves on Honey Badger, avoiding the loose rock, and are confident that any minor cleaning will not affect the route’s grade or aesthetics.

Middle of Honey Badger, bolts five through ten; the midway anchor will be at Bolt 5 as marked in the photo.

Top of Honey Badger, bolts ten through 15, to the upper anchor.

There are currently nine established routes on the west face of Overhang Rock. Snake Watching (sport, 5.13a; route 613 in the photo below) is the leftmost route on the wall and is separate from the rest of the routes. It is also the tallest route on the wall, ascending 40 meters up the face through the tiered roof system at the top of the wall. The other routes begin approximately 100 feet to the right and include, from left to right, the three 5.12 sport routes Tits out for the Lads [route 614], The Big Picture [route 615], and Missing Link [route 616], all of whichbegin atop a large ledge, as well as a 5.11d sport route, Short Attention Span [route 617], which ascends the face just right of the ledge. Farther right there are four traditional climbs: the 2-pitch Junior Achievement (5.8-; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 R; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8; route 620), and West Side (Story)(5.6; route 621).

An overview photo of Overhang Rock, showing Snake Watching (5.13a sport; route 613), the proposed new climb Honey Badger (5.12+/13- sport; route A), Tits out for the Lads (5.12 sport; route 614), The Big Picture (5.12 sport; route 615), Missing Link (5.12 sport; route 616), Short Attention Span (5.11d sport; route 617), Junior Achievement (5.8- trad; route 618), A Chorus Line (5.9 trad; route 619), Shibboleth (5.8 trad; route 620), and West Side (Story) (5.6 trad; route 621).

The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Block boulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching.  From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 50-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the base of the proposed climb, which is a relatively flat monolithic rock surface.

The start of the approach trail to the west face of Overhang Rock, fifteen feet east of the Shelf Block boulder on the Bear Canyon Trail, about five minutes up-canyon from where it meets the Mesa Trail.

Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. Due to the length of the proposed climb (~40 meters), it will be necessary to descend by either lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the route to a midway anchor at the ledge at about 50 feet, even with a 70-meter rope. From the midway anchor it is a 50-foot lower or rappel to the ground. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.

The staging area is a rock ramp at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc. A small platform with a bomber gear anchor is available for the belayer directly beneath the climb, which would allow him to comfortably see the climber above.

Staging area below Honey Badger and a useful gear belay that will let the belay see the climber as well as be directly below the route, which moves through the right end of the purple roof near the jumbled blocks.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Americana Nouveau 5.14/14+, South Face of Seal Rock

The south face of Seal Rock, showing the existing climbs and the proposed route, Americana Nouveau, in green. Note that the Tufa Route (orange) does not yet exist but is also proposed for the January 2013 FHRC cycle.

The proposed route, Americana Nouveau (5.14/14+), is on the central-south face of the Seal Rock formation, about 30-40 feet west of the wall’s single existing sport climb, Choose Life (5.13+; August 2012) and up the gully from the wall’s three traditional/toprope routes: Primate (5.13), Skin Flute (5.12-), and Jade Gate (5.11). The base of this proposed climb is reached utilizing the same approach trail as for Choose Life and the other climbs on this side of Seal Rock.

The proposed climb, Americana Nouveau, showing the top 13 clips (out of 15) and lowering anchors at 110 feet.

The south face of Seal Rock currently hosts four other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional), and Choose Life (5.13+ sport). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower south face; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those, while the start of Choose Life (and another route proposed for this same FHRC cycle, Tufa Route—above) is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. The proposed route, Americana Nouveau, would begin 30-40 feet uphill (west) from Choose Life, making it the farthest climb west on this central sector.

A close-up of the bottom third of the route, showing the first seven clips.

This route has been thoroughly inspected over the course of multiple days via toprope. Some sections of rock will need minor cleaning, including the strategic removal of select loose flakes in the lower area and a little near the top, but the stone is generally very solid and good quality throughout. The climb begins by meandering through a series of compact, overlapping sandstone layers before moving, at around the 30-foot mark, into typical Flatirons conglomerate for the remainder of the climb. The climbing to this lithologic change is estimated to be in the 5.13- difficulty range. From here, the climb enters into the severely difficult crux section, moving through interesting, sculpted holds up a black streak of water-hardened rock. After pulling over a bulge-like feature at 80 feet, the difficulty eases off slightly for the remaining 30 feet before the proposed anchor at the ~110 foot mark.

Due to the severely overhanging nature of this section of cliff, the paucity of directional gear, and the sheer difficulty of this route, only certain sections have been freed on toprope. However, after careful inspection over the days spent attempting the line, usable and solid features between the toproped sections and throughout the climb give the equipper good reason to believe that the climb is free-able in its entirety, its difficulty predicted to be in the 5.14/5.14+ range. The applicant has climbed and established multiple climbs of this grade throughout the United States, and is confident that American Nouveau is viable as a free climb. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear, and thus the applicant wishes to protect the climb with 15 five-piece Power stainless-steel expansion bolts of half-inch diameter and at least 2.75” in length. Finally,  this sport climb will be equipped with stainless-steel ring-and-chain lowering anchors at 110 feet (34 meters), which will lower the climber to a location just adjacent to the staging ground, about 25 feet away on top of a boulder. It will be mandatory to use a 70-meter rope.

A close-up of the top third of the route, showing the last six clips and lowering anchors at the top of the wall (~110 feet).

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs.

Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup formation to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here, a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs.

Staging area for Americana Nouveau is the closer circle; farther circle is the staging area for Choose Life.

The staging area is flat, meaning that little to no erosion will occur. The area is silty, rocky soil beneath the overhang, with a small patch of Oregon grape to the side of the boulder/s you’ll belay from. A climber’s trail already exists connecting the staging area for American Nouveau to that of Choose Life, and from there down the gully to the main approach trail.

Harmon Cave cutoff from the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon.

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Approach trail along the Seal Pup up to the saddle below the south face of Seal Rock

Hueco Wall, showing all three pitches.

The Hueco Wall climbs the stunning, highly-hueco’d steep face up the center of the south face of the Maiden. It could be climbed in three pitches (45 ft, 80 ft, and 80 ft) or two longer pitches.  It starts directly below the end of the first pitch of the South Face (SF) route and climbs up to the same anchor, overlapping with the SF 1st pitch in the last 15 feet.   No bolts would be used anywhere near this overlap as adequate existing natural protection (and an existing fixed piton) are present.  The existing 1^st pitch SF anchor consists of slings around a rock horn and carabiners, though other solid, natural protection is also available in this same area. The fixed slings and biners are commonly used for rappelling the South Face Route.

The South Face route starts downhill and to the right (east) approximately 60 feet and traverses left to finish at this same belay, while the start of the Kor Dalke route is uphill and to the west approximately 50 feet.  The somewhat obscure (andunrepeated) Eye of the Storm also begins from the same first pitch SF belay, though traverses hard left to a large “mitten” flake feature.  It apparently goes up the right side of the mitten flake (we recently observed fixed slings in that crack) and continues traversing up and left.  At one point, the Hueco Wall line comes within about 10 feet of this flake, though only briefly.   The wall has 5 existing traditional routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a.  From left to right (west to east), the routes are Gates of Galas (5.10d R), the Kor-Dalke (12a R), Eye of the Storm (5.9 X), the South Face (5.8 PG-13), and South Crack (5.11b). All of these existing routes and the proposed route are shown in the photo here.

Maiden approach trail.

The approach is the standard Maiden established trail to the south face climbs.  The trail involves leaving the Mesa Trail near an old quarry north of Shadow Canyon, following the quarry road to the north for a few hundred yards, then following a small climber trail (see photo below) up to the eastern toe of the Maiden.  This narrow trail is mostly dirt and rocks and is in good shape and appears stable.  The base of the south face of the Maiden is approximately 1 mile from the fork off the Mesa Trail.

The proposed route would end (atop its third pitch) at a double-bolt anchor down off the summit ridge, out of view of the East Ridge; one could either lower from here back to the pitch-two anchor or continue up and finish with an easy 5.6 section to the summit. When descending from atop the second pitch, an approximate 80-foot rappel would be required to get down to the first-pitch South Face rappel anchor. Another 50-foot rappel would be required to get back to the ground and base of the route.  It might be possible to lower from the second-pitch anchor with a 70-m rope though this has not been tested. The route should require about 25-26 bolts total: 4 lead bolts on the first section/pitch; 8 lead bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on the second pitch; and 9/10 lead bolts on the third pitch to a 2-bolt anchor.

The base of the climb is rocky but includes some bushes and trees, and there is little or no existing erosion. We recommend using the same rocky staging area as for the SF route, as the very base of the climb is a narrow rocky gully bordered by trees.   The photo below shows the proposed staging area and the start of the climb can be seen in that shady gully approximately 30 feet behind the seated climber.

Hueco Wall staging area at base.

Reconnaissance work has been completed over four different days and the rock is extremely clean in general, though some potentially friable rock exists in the first 10 feet of the second pitch above the belay anchor atop pitch one of the South Face.  The route has been toproped, and all but the last 15 feet or so of the second pitch was free climbed, due to a lack of directional anchors to hold us into the wall when we fell.  The first pitch went free at about 5.9 and the second pitch is 5.11 to our highpoint.  Rigging of the toprope was tricky and required directional gear placements that were difficult to set due to the overhanging nature of the rock in that area.  Obvious holds were present in the last 15 feet of the second pitch, though it was difficult to toprope this part due to the swing potential based on available directionals.  While not able to free-climb the last few feet due to challenging toprope conditions, we believe that the finish of the second pitch would be in the 5.11+/5.12- range.  Only small portions of the third pitch were climbed free due to large swings when falling on toprope and lack of available directionals.  We estimate the third pitch to be rated somewhere in the 5.12 range, and obvious holds were present throughout the line shown in the photos. Due also to the overhanging nature of the rock above our proposed second-pitch anchor, it will be necessary to drill one or two holes and place one or two bolts on the third pitch to get in and safely install this anchor the first time down, as well as to toprope the third pitch. We will endeavor to place the bolts in obvious clipping stances; barring that, we’ll use removable Triplex bolts. Any temporary bolts would then be removed, and the holes patched and camouflaged.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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The upper two-thirds of Choose Life (5.14a), South Face of Seal Rock, Flatirons, with proposed lead and anchor bolts.

The proposed climb, Choose Life, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has no bolted climbs save an old anchor at the lip of the wall twenty feet right of the proposed climb. Choose Life was redpointed on toprope in 2002, and takes a clean, striking line up an overhanging black streak on one of the steepest parts of the face. It is a 95-foot climb that begins with an arching 5.12a crack-like feature before traversing left (5.12-) into the streak proper; from there, unrelenting 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing follows the streak to the top of the wall. The applicants propose using at most eleven protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor; a mixture of traditional and bolted protection can be used on the initial thirty feet, after which the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. Given the sustained nature of the climbing and paucity of clipping stances on the top half, some of the bolts will have to be somewhat widely spaced—more than a body length apart—as a matter of course, though the route will still be absolutely safe.

The upper half of Choose Life (5.14a), South Face of Seal Rock, Flatirons, with proposed lead and anchor bolts, as well as existing anchor right of the climb at the top of wall.

The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to three other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), and Primate (5.13 toprope/traditional). Jade Gate and Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate. There is also an anchor at the lip of the wall between Primate and Choose Life that was installed in the late 1980s before the bolting ban, in anticipation of establishing a sport climb on the face below.

The base of the South Face of Seal Rock. In red: 1) is Jade Gate (5.11 trad). 2) is Skin Flute (5.12 trad/toprope). 3) is Primate (5.13 trad/toprope). And 4), in black, is the start of Choose Life.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown soil mixed with talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.

The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Approved

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Choose Life staging area, South Face of Seal Rock.

Description

Establish a new, 100-foot sport climb graded 5.12+ on the center-left side of the West Face of the Slab. The climb will have thirteen total lead bolts, a two-bolt top anchor, and a midway anchor for rope-drag management and that lets climbers do only the 5.11c first pitch if they so choose.

Detailed Description

The top half (pitch) of Pogo Lord, showing the midway and upper anchors as proposed.

The climb, Pogo Lord, is on the center-left west face of the Slab, 30 feet right of the start of the Whipping Post/Trad Kreem and 15-20 feet left of the existing climb Pen 15. This pitch, on excellent rock, overhangs severely along its length and has been freed on toprope at 5.12+. Pogo Lord has no opportunities for reliable natural protection along its 30-meter (100-foot) length, and the applicants would like to place thirteen protection bolts as well as two sets of anchors (4 bolts total), one at the top of the wall and one at the midpoint (15 meters). The applicants propose this latter midway anchor, atop the first pitch (5.11c), both to address rope-drag issues for those wishing to break the climb into two pitches as well as to provide a lowering anchor for the first pitch and for an alternate first pitch on the left (to be applied for later) that they have also toproped at mid-5.11.

Pogo Lord (5.12+), the Slab, Fern Canyon

This midpoint anchor would allow for two new pitches of a more moderate/warm-up grade at the Slab, where to date the range has been almost exclusively 5.12 to 5.13. On the whole, Pogo Lord in its entirety climbs good, solid, featured rock on overhanging dinner plates (5.11d/12a; the first eleven bolts) to a crux encounter (5.12c) on small crimpers at the final two bolts.

Staging area for Pogo Lord, the Slab, Fern Canyon

 The approach is via a designated but unsigned climber-access trail, the standard approach to the north/west face of the Slab, which leaves the Fern Canyon Trail about a quarter mile up from the Y-junction at the mouth of the canyon. The Slab-access trail heads south through the trees past two large boulders, crosses a talus field, and deposits you at the northwest corner of the formation. This climb is then two minutes up along the west face on a slightly uphill cliffbase climber trail traditionally used to access all the existing west-face climbs. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact red soil mixed with scree- and talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with a series of large boulders embedded 10 feet out from the cliff base (one, flat durable rock surface is convenient for toprope belaying) and some small pine trees here and there well off to the sides. It is contiguous with the staging areas for other west-face climbs including Whipping Post, Trad Kreem, Pen 15, and Super Kreem.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Hot if You’re Not: 5.11c, reinstall bolt on existing climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Re-install the chopped first bolt on the existing sport climb Hot if You’re Not, a 5.11c on the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description

This is an existing (at present) three-bolt 5.11 face climb on the west face of Der Zerkle. The first bolt was removed by parties unknown some time in the late 1980s or early 1990s, leaving the 11c crux, a fifteen-foot boulder problem beginning off the ground, over a sloping landing with rocks and a retaining-wall timber, completely unprotected. As it stands, the current first bolt is approximately twenty-five feet off the ground.

Hot If You're Not (5.11), Der Zerkle, showing the site of the proposed reinstallation of the first bolt, as well as the current first bolt's location.

While the current first bolt can be reached by an unprotected 5.8 traverse from the left along a flake, most climbers will likely be deterred by either of the current options: soloing the boulder problem; or doing the aforementioned 5.8 traverse, clipping the current first bolt, and lowering off to do the direct boulder problem (crux start) on toprope. The route is an existing route that has been led by the applicant with and without the missing first bolt and has been toproped by the applicant and hundreds of other climbers

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Wing Ding: 5.10, reinstall existing climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Re-install the chopped four-bolt sport climb Wing Ding on the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain, as well as put back in its chopped top anchor.

Detailed Description

This is an existing 5.10 face climb that once had four bolts protecting it as well as a double-bolt top anchor. All four bolts and the two top-anchor bolts were removed at some point in the late 1980s by parties unknown. The climb has remained a toprope problem since then.

Wing Ding (5.10), Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain, showing the proposed sites for reinstallation of the lead bolts and top anchors—in their original locations.

It is a fun moderate climb on solid rock, up good huecos, edge, and hornlike features. The route is an existing route that has been led by the applicant when the bolts were in place and toproped by the applicant and hundreds of other climbers.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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“Bar Gnar” (working title): 5.9+/10-, new climb, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Install a new four-bolt sport climb, with a double-bolt anchor, on the left side of the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description

"Bar Gnar" (5.9+/10a), a new climb on Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain, showing the proposed sites for the four lead bolts and top anchor.

The proposed climb, “Bar Gnar” (5.9+), parallels the existing route Bar None (5.9) about ten feet to its right, and the existing traditional climb Der Furhrer (5.8) about twelve feet to its left. It is on the upper left (northwest) end of the West Face of Der Zerkle, on Dinosaur Mountain just off the Mallory Cave Trail. The applicant proposes placing four protection bolts, as well as a double-bolt anchor up and over the lip to climber’s right from the existing anchor on Bar None. Having an independent anchor will reduce anchor/lowering/toproping bottlenecks on this section of the wall.

“Bar Gnar” moves up a thin seam at the start to a first clip twelve feet up, after which you encounter a 5.9+ face crux on thin edges. Above this you can place a small TCU (Metolus No. 1 or 0) and or an RP/Stopper in the seam out left to protect a moderate mantel move onto the ledge. Above the ledge, the climb moves up solid, sustained red-brown stone on huecos and crimper edges at 5.9+/10a. It is an aesthetic, solid moderate climb in keeping with the difficulty and quality of the other routes on the wall, which is quite popular with climbers looking for Flatirons routes in the 5.7-to-5.11 range. The route has been toproped by the applicant and several other climbers in his party, as well FHRC representatives. It climbs a nice, clean red-brown face with no loose rock.

"Bar Gnar" (5.9+/10a), proposed new route, Der Zerkle, showing the bolt and anchor location and neighboring climbs.

Bar Gnar does have some proximity to the existing climbs Bar None (sport) and Der Fuhrer (trad), though it is not a squeeze job; Bar Gnar’s protection bolts should not affect the nature of the trad climb Der Fuhrer, especially if the second bolt, above the ledge, is situated as far left as is reasonable. At its start, Der Fuhrer climbs the huecoed and rippled face right of the small pine tree in the photo below, while Bar Gnar begins well to its left; the only possible proximity is at the roof/bulge above the mid-height ledge. Above the break/ledge, Der Furhrer stays in a trough-like feature right of the upper headwall and then steps right again into a wide crack, while “Bar Gnar” tackles the headwall directly, with the climbing on the two routes becoming farther apart the higher you climb.

The descent will be via a lower-off anchor, directly back to the staging area. The base is the top (northwest) end of the climber-access trail and the standard cliff-base staging area, a durable, semi-flat surface of hardpacked dirt and rock with trees all around.

Staging area for "Bar Gnar," Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Description

Add five bolts to the existing toproute route Tracks Are for Kids and move the anchor into a more logical place at (and not over) the lip.
Area
Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, immediately left of Big Bob Cranks.

Detailed Description

Tracks Are for Kids (10b) showing the existing anchor over the lip and site of new anchor and proposed five lead bolts.

The existing toprope anchor bolts and chains for Tracks Are for Kids (and the existing 5.9+ lead climb Big Bob Cranks, to the right) were installed years ago and placed in a rope-eating site back over the lip. The applicant proposes to move these anchors down to a more logical, cleaner-handling stance at the lip as well as to turn the 5.10 toprope into a lead climb. The proposed route is independent and takes a very direct line from the base of the wall to the 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 15 feet up, clippable from an easy ledge stance.  Subsequent bolts are spaced to protect the steep (slightly overhanging) and sustained climbing (5.10b/c) on solid pockets and huecos. Tracks Are For Kids is probably the best of the three climbs—the two existing lead climbs being Big Bob Cranks and the short 5.10+ Triceratops Tracks, down and right—on the wall. It’s a mystery as to why the protection bolts were not installed with the anchor bolts.

The staging area is in a steep gully with some natural erosion at the cliff base and little vegetation, reached via a scramble-down from the southern facet of Dinosaur Rock. Erosion along the scramble-down could be mitigated by sticking to rock slabs.

Comments:

 Yes, approve bolts and relocation of anchor.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Big Bob Cranks, 10a, Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain

Description:

I propose installing anchor bolts with chains/rings directly above the end of the primary difficulties on Big Bob Cranks in order to avoid approximately 20 feet of low-angle slab climbing that is out of line (rising traverse) and character with the rest of the pitch.

Area:

Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description:

The existing route, Big Bob Cranks (5.10a, 2-stars, 5 bolts, 70’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s FA, unknown party) climbs through five bolts. Climbing from the ground to the fourth bolt is direct and sustained at the 5.8 – 5.10 level on vertical to overhanging terrain. The climber then leaves the steep face and pulls onto the low-angle slab of the south face and ascends the slab (5.4-5.5) for approximately 10’ to clip the fifth bolt and then ascends another 10′ up the slab (5.4/5.5) to the 2-bolt chain-anchor atop Tracks Are For Kids (10b, 2-stars, top-rope anchors only, 55’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s TR FA, unknown party).

This chain-anchor is set far back on the low-angle slab and causes damaging rope-drag when lowering or top-roping Big Bob Cranks or Tracks Are For Kids. 3’ slings must be used. The anchor bolts are old, rusted and, at the very least, will be removed and relocated to reduce rope-drag while TR’ing Tracks Are For Kids. Note that another application has been submitted on this page to install five protection bolts to turn Tracks into a safe lead climb.

Proposed anchor in yellow.

I propose placing anchor bolts directly above the end of the main difficulties found on the vertical wall. Eliminating 20’ of 5.4 – 5.5 climbing does not alter the primary character of the route. The new location will permit unhindered lowering and top-roping without damaging a rope. I will use ½” x 2 ¾” camouflaged, stainless steel bolts and hangers. Lowering chains/rings will also be camouflaged.

Comments:

Yes to new anchor.

 FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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Sick for Sleeping (REVISED), 5.11c, the Slab, Fern Canyon

Description

Install an eight-bolt face climb on the west face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus (5.10d).

Area
West face of the Slab, right of the Undertow Ledge

Detailed Description:

New suggested first bolt on Sick for Sleeping, positioned to be out of the way of the approach ledge to Undertow, just below.

The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus. It is a 75-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts just right of the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear); since the initial application in June, this bolt has been repositioned such that the rope and belayer won’t hinder anyone crossing the lower ledge to access Undertow. Above this bolt there is a short section of low-angled rock and a second bolt protecting moderate climbing leading to a ledgy band and then the upper wall, where the 5.11 climbing begins in earnest.

The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11b/c moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then an 11a/b crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes on a formation at present weighted toward 5.12/5.13 climbs. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of tan and brown rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing cliff-base trail.

Comments:

 Yes, approve this new route. 

Sick for Sleeping (5.11), the Slab, showing all eight bolts to the anchors (second bolt, on slab, indicated in blue).

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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New, Lower First Bolt, Touch Monkey, 5.11b, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Add a new, lower first bolt to the existing climb Touch Monkey

Area

West face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Detailed Description

Yellow X marks proposed new first bolt on Touch Monkey.

Touch Monkey (5.11b) is located on the west face of the lower tier of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain. The climb begins with 20 feet of 5.10 climbing, and then encounters a tricky 5.11 overhanging bulge to the anchors.  The first bolt is located 20 feet above the ground in the overhanging section, and is only clippable from a very awkward stance, by reaching out into the overhang while unprotected from a groundfall. (There is the possibility for a very marginal small TCU and slinged thread, through a fragile hole in the rock, but neither option comes until you’re almost to the bolt and neither should be relied upon to prevent a groundfall.)  The scary first clip deters people from doing this climb, and is risky for those not comfortable at the grade.

Applicant proposes adding a new, lower bolt at approximately 12’ above the ground, or 8’ below the existing first bolt, on a vertical panel before you move into the roof.  The bolt would be placed such that the lower awkward 5.10 stand-up move would be protected, as would the stretch-out to clip the first bolt in the overhang.  This addition will make Touch Monkey significantly safer and more enjoyable to users, and bring the total number of bolts to five, which is appropriate for a 50-foot climb. It will also give good protection for shorter climbers as they stretch for the high first clip, in the roof, as well as provide a backup against any potential groundfall should the original first bolt fail. The applicant has spoken to the first ascentionist, Paul Glover, and he approves adding the lower first bolt.

Comments:

 No, do not add a bolt.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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New, Lower First Bolt, Short Attention Span, 11d, Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Description

We propose adding one new protection bolt between the ground and the current first bolt on Short Attention Span to protect against groundfalls.

Area

Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Detailed Description

Short Attention Span is located on the west face of Overhang Rock. The climb, a 5.11d and the easiest sport route on the wall, ascends the vertical, lichen-streaked face on the south end of the face. Short Attention Span’s first bolt is located approximately 25’ above the ground and involves unprotected 5.10 climbing to reach the clipping stance. Some of the holds below this first clip are less than bomber and could possibly snap. The landing zone consists of first hitting the lower-angled slab at the beginning of the pitch, and then a large, sharp flake with a wide crack and large boulders. A groundfall would most likely land a climber in the ER with bone-breaking injuries and/or lacerations. Such a potentially injurious runout is out of character with the remainder of the pitch, other sport-routes on the W Face of Overhang Rock and Flatirons, bolt-protected climbing in general. We have spoken with at least four people who have climbed the route, three of whom were leading and are 5.12-and-up climbers, and all strongly supported an additional bolt to protect against a groundfall. Some climbers competent at the grade choose not to lead Short Attention Span because of the risk.

We propose adding a bolt at approximately 16′ to avoid a groundfall — you would climb unprotected 5.8 to this point then the bolt would protect 5.10 face moves getting to the original first bolt. This addition will make the climb significantly safer and more enjoyable. It will also allow climbers at the 5.11 level at least one route at the crag they can climb safely. For those who are pursuing the other climbs on the wall, the extra bolt will make Short Attention Span a much nicer warm-up. The first ascent party approves of adding a new bolt.

Location of current first bolt on Short Attention Span.

Comments:

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

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The proposed route, Patience Face (5.12a), is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, and will share the first five bolts of climbing with the existing climb The Shaft before moving right onto a wide black streak that runs to the top of the wall. The staging area is 40 feet down and off the trail, a flat spot among the trees that is also used for The Shaft. The route is 35 meters (114 feet) in length and has been redpointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. Patience Face offers no cracks or reliable traditional/natural gear placements, and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The new route will consist of a total of 15 stainless steel, half-inch bolts: five existing bolts on the lower half of The Shaft, then eight new protection bolts and two new anchor bolts.

Patience Face starts out with a 5.11/11+ sequence (shared with The Shaft) to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest in a large pod. The climb then moves out the right side of the pod onto a twisting black streak/extruded tufa feature that trends up and right, away from the top half of The Shaft, gradually deviating from 10 to 30 feet away from The Shaft. The climb has two 5.12- cruxes at mid-height before another resting pod, then steps right and trends right again along a ramp before summiting the wall via a crux bulge (5.11+12-). The climb will require a 70-meter rope, but given that the climbing remains sustained to the top — and that all other routes established on Dinosaur Rock, including the 35-meter Ultrasaurus, also go to the top of the wall — the applicants do not recommend ending the climb sooner simply for convenience’s sake.

Patience Face, showing upper bolts, and anchors.

The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean. The rock has a black water polish and is very solid and compact. The shared start of Patience Face and The Shaft is the only safe and logical start on this part of the wall, which otherwise has friable rock down low.

The route offers sustained, outstanding, shady 5.12- climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with The Shaft, an already existent line. The climbing is athletic and gymnastic in nature; having a good 5.12- here will add to the destination qualities of Dinosaur Mountain, with the existing 5.10s and 5.11s on Der Zerkle only a minute’s hike away.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete


Voting Results: Approved


OSMP Decision: Pending

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Trad Kreem (5.10-) Piton Upgrade, the Slab, Fern Canyon

The crux of the route Trad Kreem (5.10-) is currently protected by an old fixed piton in questionable rock, with possible severe consequences if the piton pulls out. The applicant proposes to either replace that piton with a new piton, or to place a bolt nearby and remove the piton. As far as recorded history goes, the first known ascent of the Trad Kreem corner was likely done by Chris Beh and Owen Silver in 2010. However, when they started up the route, there was an old fixed piton in a crack near the base of the route. The piton (a Chouinard/BD baby angle) protects the overhanging 5.10a crux, and failure of the piton would likely cause the leader to hit a large ledge below. It is possible to place a small cam (blue tcu or blue Alien) just below the piton, but it is in the same questionable rock as the piton (see photos).

Trad Kreem, showing the first bolt on Whipping Post and the piton in question.

The applicant used a hammer to test the piton and surrounding rock because it appeared that the rock to the right of the piton was questionable. Tapping on the piton gave a reasonably reassuring ring, but tapping the nearby rock caused some concern. The applicant believes that the two seams shown in the photos contribute to the rock on the right side producing a hollow thud. The piton and the cam rely on the integrity of this flake. The piton holds body weight, and might hold a small fall (such as the one that would occur if you fell making the long move to the end of the crux), but the applicant feels that the piton is marginal at best.

A close-up of the piton, the flake/seams around it, and the TCU that backs it up.

Trad Kreem is a trad route (i.e., requires trad gear) at a crag that is predominately a sport crag, though several of the sport routes here do require a few pieces of gear, so it is not unrealistic for people to bring a light rack. At 5.10-, the route is also easier than most of the routes at the crag, and serves as a decent warm-up for the harder routes in the area. The move protected by the piton is a long 5,10- reach, on steep rock, off small holds. As stated above, if the piton (and/or the cam) pulled out, it is likely that the leader would land on the large ledge below, though perhaps a very attentive belayer might be able to keep you off the ledge using the first bolt on Whipping Post. This, bolt, below the piton, is however not ideally positioned to protect the crux of Trad Kreem, even though you clip it before clipping the piton. It protects a leftward-traversing move on Whipping Post that occurs very close to the bolt, so a ledge fall from that route is much less likely.

The piton and, to its left, the suggested bolt placement.

The applicant does not have strong feelings about either proposed solution, but is submitting this application to create a discussion that will lead to a reasonable solution. If a bolt is approved, he will place a ½” x 4¾” stainless Powers Bolt, with stainless-steel hanger. The approximate location for the bolt is marked by a dot of chalk in the photos. Exact placement will consider the reach of shorter climbers, to ensure that they can reach the bolt before doing the crux moves.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete


Voting Results: Approved pin-for-pin replacement.


OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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Sick for Sleeping (5.11), the Slab, Fern Canyon

Sick for Sleeping, showing the first bolt on easy terrain and start of upper climbing. The left bolt line is the existing climb Hippopotamus.

The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus, on the Undertow ledge. It is an 85-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts with about 25 feet of moderate rock (a No. 2 Camalot protects if you wish) that bisects the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear). Above this there is a short section of low-angle rock approaching another break/ledge and then the upper wall.

The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11a/b moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then the 11c crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

The upper six bolts (5.11 climbing) on Sick for Sleeping, the Slab, Fern Canyon.

This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing trail at the base to the cliff.

FHRC Overview of the application: Postponed until Sep ’11 cycle.


Voting Results: Pending


OSMP Decision: Pending

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There are two possible ways this route could go. The applicant has inspected the route on rappel and climbed the upper section free. The upper section climbs on the steep face just right of the right arête of the west face. Because of the overhanging angle, it is impossible to inspect and climb the lower section. At the very least the upper portion of the route can be done by climbing the first 25ft. of the West Overhang (using trad gear to protect that section) and then climbing rightwards across the slab to the arete. This is the red line and would require the placement of the two bolts marked in blue. However, it looks like it may be possible to climb the arête (yellow line) directly below the upper line. The feasibility of this can only be determined once the bolts on the upper wall are installed. This direct version is preferred if it goes, and would require the bolts indicated in yellow. In terms of difficulty, the upper section is mid-range 5.13. The traverse (blue bolts) is in the 5.12- range. The direct start, if it goes free, appears to be anywhere from 5.13 to 5.14. The attached image depicts the number of bolts required for each variation.

The applicant’s approach in establishing this climb would be to first install all the bolts on the upper section (red bolts). Once those are installed he’ll be able to determine if the direct line (yellow) is climbable. If he can climb this (yellow) and it is not significantly harder than the upper section, he will install only the yellow bolts and not install those marked with blue. But if the direct start is significantly harder, it could be worth adding the blue bolts to make the upper section of the route accessible at an easier grade. If the direct line does not go, the applicant will install the blue bolts to protect the traverse accessing the upper section.

The staging area for this route is the same as that of the West Overhang. The route is just over 100ft. long and would thus require a 70m rope (unless the second follows the pitch). The nearest bolt on this new route would be approximately 15’ from the West Overhang route and thus would not interfere or cause confusion with that route. The applicant has inspected the route for natural-protection options and found only marginal placements in questionable rock (at the chocolate-colored band at midpoint).

The style of climbing involves steep and very physical pulling on edges and sidepull features. The rock is very sound throughout and will not require much, if any, cleaning.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending

GREEN MOUNTAIN

Third Flatiron

*Direct West Face aka Western Skyline (5.11b; one or two pitches); FA: Roger Briggs, Dave Turner, Bill Briggs, Matt Samet, many others, 2009: A technical aesthetic, continually challenging climb directly up the lime-green arête on the west face of the Third, left of Saturday’s Folly. Begin on Saturday’s Folly for 20 feet, plug gear, then step left across the scoop to chase 5 bolts up the blunt arête. Move into a 5.10 finger crack (TCUs) through a bulge, then belay off hand-sized cams on a small ledge just above, or continue if linking pitches. From here, gear plus four bolts leads you up and slightly left, then out the big roof to finish on an exciting arête. Belay at the big ledge, then rap the normal descent; bring a standard rack up to hands (gold Camalot) size. Use longs lings if doing this as one pitch.

Direct West Face aka Western Skyline (5.11b)

DINOSAUR MOUNTAIN

Der Zerkle:

•Bar None (5.8); FA: David Turner and Terry Murphy, 2004: This is the leftmost route on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Begin about 20 feet left of What if You’re Not, following four bolts past fun huecos to a double-bolt anchor. The climbing is slightly easier if you finish left of the last bolt, around the arête.

•Feeling Lucky (5.10a); FA: Chris Archer, Al “Poncho” Torrisi, John Bragg, Monica Fitzgerald, 2012: This is the second bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Feeling Lucky starts down and right of the climb Bar None, described above. Climb a thin 5.9 section to a ledge. From here, fun jug hauling over a roof leads past the third bolt to a decision: head left directly up the bolt line on surprisingly good finger rails at 10- or head right on jugs that lower the difficulty. Five bolts total to a double-bolt anchor.

•Wing Ding (5.10c): This is the fourth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Begin on a moderate flake feature down and right of What If You’re Not to get established up to the break. From here, follow four bolts up gently overhanging hueco’ed rock on the right side of the pocket-studded headwall feature. Double-bolt anchors at the lip. This is a 2012 reinstall of an existing climb from 1989 that was subsequently chopped.

•Hot If You’re Not (5.11): This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave. In 2012, the former first bolt, chopped at some point in the late 1980s, was reinstalled. It’s useful to stick-clip this bolt to protect the opening boulder-problem crux.

•Touch Monkey (5.11b): A new first bolt was added in 2012, doing away with a long runout off the ground to reach the former first bolt out in the roof.

Frankenstein’s Castle:

•Street Hassle (5.12c): A new first bolt was added in spring 2011, bringing the total bolt count on this existing climb (FA: Paul Glover, Hank Caylor; 1987) to five and doing away with the need for a stick clip of the high (former) first bolt.

Der Freischutz:

Jonathan Siegrist sending The Horn (5.13d); © Andy Mann.

•The Horn (5.13d); FA: Jonathan Siegrist: This six-bolt climb, on the northwest arete/prow of Der Freischutz, was installed in 2009 and freed in spring 2010. It features steepening 5.11 and 5.12 climbing up to a wild, exposed, very difficult boulder-problem on the steepest part of the overhang.

The Hand:

•Cardboard Cowboy (5.11c): A new final bolt was added to this existing climb (FA: Paul Glover, 1987) in autumn 2010, doing away with a 20-foot runout to the anchor and bringing the total bolt count to five.

Red Devil:

•Hell Freezes Over (pitch one: 10a; pitch two: 12a); FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding, Alan Higham, Nick Archer, 2004: This is the leftmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the obvious switchback staging area below the first pitch, along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. The first pitch is 95 feet and has 11 bolts, with the crux on the smooth lower slab (can be done at about 5.9 by stepping slightly right). Belay at or descend from double bolts. The crux second pitch starts off the big ledge and climbs past four bolts on the overhanging scoop to arête, with tough lock-offs to incut crimpers; finish far left at a double-bolt and chain anchor. You can rap the route, or scramble off left (west) from the ledge below the second pitch. Great position and views of Boulder!

•Paradise Lost (5.9); FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, 2006: This is the rightmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the switchback staging area along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. Follow nine bolts up a steep, featured face with cruxes coming over various bulges and negotiating left-leaning ramps. Descend from double bolts (60-meter rope mandatory). A good climb on sunny, cooler days or summer afternoons.

Dinosaur Rock:

Paul G toproping Pretty in Pinkler (12a).

•Pretty in Pinkler (5.11d); FA: Matt Samet, Paul Glover, 2011: This is the leftmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Eight bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the top of a little semi-detached spire. Begin by climbing onto a block at the base of the wall; clip high, step left, and move up the arete until a crux pocket traverse takes you back right along the hanging roof. From here move up fluted rock via crimpers as the angle eases off.

Nathan Fox on the cruxy upper half of The Shaft (5.12); © Lukas Hill

•The Shaft (5.12b); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, 2010: This is the second from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Ten bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the lip: sixty-meter rope MANDATORY. Begin below the big down-pointing flake, passing a nice finger pocket; move left into the groove then climb the steep face to a rest in a pod. From the pod, step left and ride the wild, pumpy, sustained “Shaft” tufa to the top of the wall.

•Patience Face (5.12a); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet (first lead: Derek Peavey) 2012: This is the third from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. It shares the first five bolts with The Shaft before stepping right onto the wide black streak/tufa feature, which it follows past another nine bolts all the way to the top of the wall. Various cruxes are interspersed with 5.10 and 5.11 climbing, as well as lots of “pod” rests. 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY. 14 bolts total to a double-bolt anchor. It’s helpful to put a long sling on the fifth bolt for rope drag, and to unclip the last bolt when lowering to keep your rope from rubbing.

•Milk Bone (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner, 2009: This is the third from the left of the four sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Follow 11 bolts up a sustained, gently overhanging tufa-like feature and then step left to anchors at the lip of the wall. The first bolt is about 40 feet up as you step left onto the face proper from the fourth-class ramp. Sixty-meter rope MANDATORY and will just get you back to the staging/belay area (tie a knot in the end of your rope!). Good shady testpiece for the summer months.

Chris Weidner nails the toprope FA of Milke Bone (5.13a), Dinosaur Rock, 2008. This route was completed as a lead a year later, in June 2009 — the first sport climb on Dinosaur Rock.

•Ultrasaurus (aka Über-Pwnage (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, 2009: This is the rightmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Begin as for Milk Bone, clipping its first two bolts to get onto the mid-wall ledge (unclip the first bolt once you’re into the second). Now stay right up the double-overhanging corner, turn the large roof, move up overhanging huecos to a rest, and then up the black-and-green streaked headawall. 16 clips total; 70-meter rope MANDATORY (and tie a knot in the end of it). The climb finishes right at the point of the wall/rock.

Ted Lanzano on Ultrasaurus (5.13b)

•Pink Man’s Burden (5.11+; two pitches); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, spring 2010: This is a two pitch sport line on the southwest side of Dinosaur Rock. Scramble around the eastern toe of Dinosaur Rock then head along its south face, to a good ledge on the far left side of the face. Move up easy-fifth class ramps and step right onto a ledge (0.5 Camalot/Metolius No. 3 helpful for rope management), then head up the steep, left-trending chocolate-colored band into the hanging bombay slot; pull up and in, and then continue left (5.8) along the west face of the rock via pods to a two-bolt belay. It’s helpful to pre-clip the second bolt on this pitch.

The second pitch (pre-clip the first bolt off the belay) climbs up the wildly overhanging but nicely featured, pocketed headwall. End at anchors at the lip. With a 70-meter rope, you can rappel from the top anchors back to the staging area below the route.

Paul Glover atop the first pitch, Pink Man’s Burden (5.11+), Dinosaur Rock.

•Tracks Are for Kids (5.10): FA: as a toprope, unknown; as a lead, Steve Annecone: Tracks Are for Kids is the left of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb five bolts past consistently overhanging huecos to a new set of anchors at the lip, installed March 2012 to replace the existing, rusty-chain anchors. Very fun climbing!

•Big Bob Cranks (5.9+): This is the middle of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb four bolts up the steep, hueco’ed face to a new, lower set of anchors at the lip of the wall (or continue past the original fifth bolt, up and over the slab, to the anchors on Tracks Are for Kids). Hardware updated and new anchor installed in spring 2012.

•Triceratops Tracks (5.10+); This is the rightmost of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb three bolts past overhanging fins to anchors over the lip. Hardware and anchors updated in spring 2012.

BEAR PEAK

Seal Rock

•Choose Life (5.14a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2012 (toprope: 2002): This is a 30-meter pitch midway along the south face of Seal Rock, and climbs an obvious wide black streak up a consistently overhanging wall past 13 bolts to a double-bolt anchor over the final bulge, on the slab. Long/extendo draws are useful down low and on a few other clips for rope drag and stancing. Also useful: A Metolius 6 (green, or No. 1 Camalot) between the second and third bolts, and a Metolius 2 (yellow, or a yellow C3) between bolts three and four—at least your first time through the route before long draws are hanging.

•North Face Rappel Route (Sea of Joy): The often-used north-face rappel route, down the three-pitch climb Sea of Joy, has been updated (11/12) with stainless-steel hardware. Work completed by Terry Murphy. Info below:

• P1 anchor – bolts and hangers (2 each)
• P2 anchor – bolts (2); one hanger with double rappel rings, one hanger with quick-links and chain.
• P3 – bolts and hangers (2 each); two existing chains and quick-links reattached to new bolts and hangers.

The P3 anchor is the standard summit rappel (162’ to ground). The P2 anchor (112’ to ground or 100’ with downclimbing) is used by parties rapping with one 60m rope—knotted rope-ends highly advised! The P1 anchors are off to the side of the rappel line, and hence were not updated with rappel hardware.

Ted Lanzano on Choose Life (5.14a), south face of Seal Rock, autumn 2012.

The Slab:

•Film Noir (5.12c/d); FA: Chris Beh, 2009-2011: This is 30-meter (60-meter rope MANDATORY), 13-bolt face climb up a beautiful black streak on the north face of the Slab, 25 feet right of Just Another Boy’s Climb. Six bolts of slab climbing (5.10+) take you to a small stance below the obvious overhanging headwall and the streak, which climbs past seven more bolts to the top.

Film Noir (5.12c/d), showing the lower slab and amazing black streak.

The crux, a heigh-dependent reach/pop/leap, comes at the base of the steep rock as you enter the streak, and then leads into sustained 5.12- climbing up the headwall.

•Shalosh (5.12a); FA: Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg, 2009: This is the nine-bolt route up the northeast-facing buttress/pillar immediately left of Family Man, on the north face of The Slab. Climb up a steepening slab to a roof encounter (5.11) to a small stance at a finger seam (small TCUs here). Move up to the base of the pillar, and then crank up ever-more difficult terrain past four bolts to a crux getting to the anchor on slopey sidepulls. A demanding, technical route.

•Family Man (5.12a+); FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008: This is the long, pumpy route through multiple tiers of roofs left of the 1980s 5.12 Boys with Power Toys. It can be identified by red-brown hangers, and starts behind a small pine tree. Climb a slab up to and through the first roof (5.11), hang on tightly for the crux second roof, negotiate more overhanging terrain, and finish up a black headwall on quality stone to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory. A classic for the grade.

•s00krEEm (5.13b); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2008; top anchors and two directionals installed by Chris Beh and Kurt Smith, 1988: s00krEEm is basically the first climb you come to when approaching The Slab on the climbers’ trail. It climbs past nine bolts on a rainbow-streaked, bulging wall on the right side of The Slab’s north face. 5.11 face climbing leads to a sustained boulder problem out the bulge, to more crimpy face moves on a headwall; finish out the big roof to an easier slab, to double-bolt anchors.

Ted Lanzano nails his redpoint on the FA day for sOOkrEEm (5.13b), the Slab – November 2008

•k00kEEz n’ krEEm (5.12+/13-); FA: Ted Lanzano, Matt Samet, 2009: Find this climb as the north face blends into the west, wrapping uphill and right; it’s about 50 feet left of the 5.11d Whipping Post. Climb 12 bolts up the clean, monolithic face to a looming summit roof (60-meter rope mandatory!). The bouldery, crimpy, temperature-dependent crux comes down low, followed by more quality face climbing and a 5.12 finish.

•Prime the Pump (5.12c); FA: Matt Samet ,Greg Belinski, 2012: This is the leftmost route on the “Undertow” headwall, the big overhang on the west face of the Slab. Can be done in two pitches, or one pitch with a 60m rope—long slings and some unclipping as you go are helpful. The first pitch is 5.11+ with six bolts, and the second pitch is 5.12c with seven bolts. Each pitch has its own anchor. The first pitch begins on a low arete right on the approach trail along the west face of the Slab; the second pitch rails right along a big flake feature to a black streak to finish.

The line of the route Prime the Pump.

•Pen 15 (5.12a/13a); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner: This is a two-pitch climb up the left-central part of the Slab’s very overhanging west face, about 50 feet right of the corner where Whipping Post starts. The entire climb is only 30 meters long, but it’s still best to break it into two pitches, for rope management and drag. Pitch one (5.12a; seven bolts): Start at the big undercling crack and move out the dark-purple bulge, passing three bolts. Head right on the ledge, then engage an overhanging bucket haul past four more bolts to an anchor over the lip. Pitch two (5.13b; seven bolts): A hard boulder problem starts the big swell, followed by more crimping and right-slanting moves on diagonal rails. Anchors up and left of the big pothole at the lip.

•s00pr kr33m (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano: This is a 10-bolt, single-pitch climb about 50 feet left of Undertow, up a very overhanging panel on the broad west face of the Slab. A 70-meter rope is MANDATORY and you might possibly want some small TCUs (to finger size) and a wired nut or two for the opening slab (5.7), though this can be avoided by walking out the ledge from Undertow and dropping your rope down to your belayer, on the ground. From the ledge, climb a short corner past three bolts to a perplexing lip encounter, then a nice stance. From here, seven more bolts of climbing take you up the ever-steepening, ever-cruxier headwall to anchors at the lip.

•Sweet Niblitz (5.12d); FA: Matt Samet, Rui Ferreira, Paul Glover, 2008: This is the overhanging wall just right of Undertow, on the west face of The Slab, beginning about 10 feet right. Pre-clip the first bolt and engage a tough, shouldery boulder problem followed by 8 more bolts of pumpy 5.12a climbing. The route flows better if you stay left of the bolts through the middle third, though it can be done on the right. Finish at double-bolt anchors up and right.

Greg B on the opening-sequence crux of Sweet Niblitz (5.12d), the Slab

Greg B finishing up the last face section on Sweet Niblitz (5.12d), the Slab

•Hippopotamus (5.10d); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, Kevin Riley, 2009: This is the short (50 feet; 5 bolts) climb on the ledge right of Sweet Niblitz. Stand high on the ledge, clip the first bolt, layback the big flake, then move into pumpy, juggy territory and up into the black scoop to finish. Anchors are over the final ledge. A great moderate and a good warm-up for the harder stuff at the Slab.

The climb begins with a hard boulder-problem start moving right to shallow pockets and pebbles in a groove-like feature, then goes straight up the green streak on pebbles and crimps to a finishing mini-bulge. The climb is continuously overhanging and difficult with little opportunity to rest, save a nice stance before the finishing bulge. The rock is well-featured with small holds throughout, solid, and visually appealing. Applicant estimates a very hard opening boulder problem to continuously difficult moves in the streak/rib to sustained 5.12+ up high.

There is no safe way to rig a toprope for this climb. The top of this pitch sits eighty feet below and forty feet to the side from the nearest anchor, on the summit of the Hand Flatiron. Even if there were was a way to build a natural anchor for this climb in the scoop directly above it, the overhanging wall below provides no natural protection and the climber would swing violently into the ascending slab behind the route. At present, it is too dangerous to work the moves; however, it is possible to closely inspect the route from the nearby slab and see that the quality of the stone is excellent and that there are positive holds for the entire pitch.

The only way to approach this a climb is to install an anchor directly above the line, halfway up the Hand’s south face, and to use three or more  directional bolts (ideally sited where one will end up clipping anyway) to sort out the moves and the best line. The total estimated bolt count will be eight bolts to double-bolt anchors.

The staging area will be the same as for Power Bulge/Back in Slacks/Rock Atrocity, an established, flat staging area directly below the formation and with no vegetation. There is no possibility for natural protection, and the applicant proposes using all-stainless half-inch hardware.

FHRC Overview of the application: Application withdrawn.
Voting Results:
OSMP Decision:

At the time of the first ascent, the applicant and his friend, who established the climb, thought the opening crux sequence should just go as a boulder problem. However, repeat ascents have almost invariably taken advantage of a long stick clip or climbed between the tree and the rock (scary) to pre-clip the first bolt, as the crux comes eight feet off the ground on very insecure, small holds. The applicant recalls that “We didn’t really know what we were doing, and being young didn’t mind taking multiple ground falls off the bouldery start. If we had known better we would have bolted it correctly.” When one stands below the route, it is obvious that the first bolt is simply missing.”The applicant says he would have added a first bolt long ago if not for the bolting ban (through 2003) in the Flatirons and feels that this aspect of the route, if not really unsafe, is not in keeping with other (sport) routes in the immediate area.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending