Archive for the ‘2014 January’ Category

Proposed New Route, 5.12a, the Goose

January 4, 2014

The proposed route, Golden Goat, is on the south/west face of the Goose, right of Sweet and Innocent. It starts by pulling a small roof onto a steep wall with powerful, reachy moves (5.11-), followed by sustained 5.10 and 5.11- climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging rock with large holds. At the top of the pitch (last 10 feet), the holds get smaller and the angle increases, requiring hard pulling on crimpy holds (5.12a crux).

West face of the Goose, showing Golden Goat and other climbs.

West face of the Goose, showing Golden Goat and other climbs.

The rock quality is good, and little or no cleaning is required.  There are only a few random natural gear placements near the line, but they are too far away to be used for this pitch, or in some cases are in more friable rock in the dark-brown roof bands. As such, placement of bolts (9 1/2″ by 2.75″ bolts) is recommended for safe lead protection.

The climbing ends on a large ledge just above the last bolt shown on the topo/photo. The proposed route includes 9 new bolts, plus two anchor bolts above the ledge on top of the pitch. The rappel anchor will consist of a bolt with a ring, plus a higher bolt with chain and ring. Climbers will be able to safely rappel or lower from this anchor using a 60-meter rope. Or the party can continue with Sweet and Innocent to the summit of the Goose. If continuing up, traverse left along a 5.7 crack about 15 feet till joining Sweet and Innocent, then follow that route approximately 80 feet to the top. Once back on the ground, reverse the approach hike described below.

Start of approach along East Ridge/Fiddlehad

Start of approach along East Ridge/Fiddlehad

There are only three existing routes in the near vicinity of the proposed route (Golden Goat). Golden Goat is a completely independent line located approximately 30 feet right of Sweet and Innocent (5.10), and is roughly 200 feet left of the route Batman (5.10b). Wild Horses (5.13a, a variation finish on Sweet and Innocent) and Raging Bull (5.12b) are also located left of the proposed line, and both share their start with Sweet and Innocent. All of these existing routes are trad with the exception of Raging Bull, which is a bolted sport climb. However, all of these existing trad routes also include bolts in addition to trad gear placements.

The approach as for the East Ridge (of Fern Canyon) is recommended, as a small climbing access trail already exists.  This approach trail leaves the main Fern Canyon trail just past the Superfresh Block. After hiking past the lower East Ridge routes, a large gap is encountered at the top (north) end of Fiddlehead… head directly east through this gap and over talus to the Goose. The base of the west face of the Goose is approximately one-half mile (15-minute hike) beyond the point above Superfresh where you leave the main Fern Canyon Trail.  The hike is mostly on rock and talus, with very little soil or duff along the way except for near the start when leaving the main trail.

Notch between Fiddlehead/East Ridge.

Notch between Fiddlehead/East Ridge.

The base of the climb is bedrock outcrops and talus, with no vegetation. There is no soil at all in the vicinity of the base of the route.

 

FHRC Overview of the application: Approved

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

Staging area below Golden Goat.

Staging area below Golden Goat.


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