Archive for the ‘2011 September’ Category

September 2011 Applications

September 23, 2011

Tracks Are for Kids, 5.10b (Dinosaur Tracks), southwest spur of Dinosaur Rock

Description

Add five bolts to the existing toproute route Tracks Are for Kids and move the anchor into a more logical place at (and not over) the lip.
Area
Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, immediately left of Big Bob Cranks.

Detailed Description

Tracks Are for Kids (10b) showing the existing anchor over the lip and site of new anchor and proposed five lead bolts.

The existing toprope anchor bolts and chains for Tracks Are for Kids (and the existing 5.9+ lead climb Big Bob Cranks, to the right) were installed years ago and placed in a rope-eating site back over the lip. The applicant proposes to move these anchors down to a more logical, cleaner-handling stance at the lip as well as to turn the 5.10 toprope into a lead climb. The proposed route is independent and takes a very direct line from the base of the wall to the 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 15 feet up, clippable from an easy ledge stance.  Subsequent bolts are spaced to protect the steep (slightly overhanging) and sustained climbing (5.10b/c) on solid pockets and huecos. Tracks Are For Kids is probably the best of the three climbs—the two existing lead climbs being Big Bob Cranks and the short 5.10+ Triceratops Tracks, down and right—on the wall. It’s a mystery as to why the protection bolts were not installed with the anchor bolts.

The staging area is in a steep gully with some natural erosion at the cliff base and little vegetation, reached via a scramble-down from the southern facet of Dinosaur Rock. Erosion along the scramble-down could be mitigated by sticking to rock slabs.

Comments:

 Yes, approve bolts and relocation of anchor.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.

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Big Bob Cranks, 10a, Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain

Description:

I propose installing anchor bolts with chains/rings directly above the end of the primary difficulties on Big Bob Cranks in order to avoid approximately 20 feet of low-angle slab climbing that is out of line (rising traverse) and character with the rest of the pitch.

Area:

Lower southwest face of Dinosaur Rock, Dinosaur Mountain.

Detailed Description:

The existing route, Big Bob Cranks (5.10a, 2-stars, 5 bolts, 70’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s FA, unknown party) climbs through five bolts. Climbing from the ground to the fourth bolt is direct and sustained at the 5.8 – 5.10 level on vertical to overhanging terrain. The climber then leaves the steep face and pulls onto the low-angle slab of the south face and ascends the slab (5.4-5.5) for approximately 10’ to clip the fifth bolt and then ascends another 10′ up the slab (5.4/5.5) to the 2-bolt chain-anchor atop Tracks Are For Kids (10b, 2-stars, top-rope anchors only, 55’, probable late 80’s/early 90’s TR FA, unknown party).

This chain-anchor is set far back on the low-angle slab and causes damaging rope-drag when lowering or top-roping Big Bob Cranks or Tracks Are For Kids. 3’ slings must be used. The anchor bolts are old, rusted and, at the very least, will be removed and relocated to reduce rope-drag while TR’ing Tracks Are For Kids. Note that another application has been submitted on this page to install five protection bolts to turn Tracks into a safe lead climb.

Proposed anchor in yellow.

 

I propose placing anchor bolts directly above the end of the main difficulties found on the vertical wall. Eliminating 20’ of 5.4 – 5.5 climbing does not alter the primary character of the route. The new location will permit unhindered lowering and top-roping without damaging a rope. I will use ½” x 2 ¾” camouflaged, stainless steel bolts and hangers. Lowering chains/rings will also be camouflaged.

Comments:

Yes to new anchor.

 

 FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

 

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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Sick for Sleeping (REVISED), 5.11c, the Slab, Fern Canyon

Description

Install an eight-bolt face climb on the west face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus (5.10d).

Area
West face of the Slab, right of the Undertow Ledge

Detailed Description:

New suggested first bolt on Sick for Sleeping, positioned to be out of the way of the approach ledge to Undertow, just below.

The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, 15 feet right of the existing climb Hippopotamus. It is a 75-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope. The route starts just right of the approach ledge to Undertow. At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear); since the initial application in June, this bolt has been repositioned such that the rope and belayer won’t hinder anyone crossing the lower ledge to access Undertow. Above this bolt there is a short section of low-angled rock and a second bolt protecting moderate climbing leading to a ledgy band and then the upper wall, where the 5.11 climbing begins in earnest.

The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11b/c moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then an 11a/b crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes on a formation at present weighted toward 5.12/5.13 climbs. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of tan and brown rock. The route needs minimal cleaning and the staging area is along the existing cliff-base trail.

Comments:

 Yes, approve this new route. 

Sick for Sleeping (5.11), the Slab, showing all eight bolts to the anchors (second bolt, on slab, indicated in blue).

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.

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New, Lower First Bolt, Touch Monkey, 5.11b, Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Description

Add a new, lower first bolt to the existing climb Touch Monkey

Area

West face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain

Detailed Description

Yellow X marks proposed new first bolt on Touch Monkey.

Touch Monkey (5.11b) is located on the west face of the lower tier of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain. The climb begins with 20 feet of 5.10 climbing, and then encounters a tricky 5.11 overhanging bulge to the anchors.  The first bolt is located 20 feet above the ground in the overhanging section, and is only clippable from a very awkward stance, by reaching out into the overhang while unprotected from a groundfall. (There is the possibility for a very marginal small TCU and slinged thread, through a fragile hole in the rock, but neither option comes until you’re almost to the bolt and neither should be relied upon to prevent a groundfall.)  The scary first clip deters people from doing this climb, and is risky for those not comfortable at the grade.

Applicant proposes adding a new, lower bolt at approximately 12’ above the ground, or 8’ below the existing first bolt, on a vertical panel before you move into the roof.  The bolt would be placed such that the lower awkward 5.10 stand-up move would be protected, as would the stretch-out to clip the first bolt in the overhang.  This addition will make Touch Monkey significantly safer and more enjoyable to users, and bring the total number of bolts to five, which is appropriate for a 50-foot climb. It will also give good protection for shorter climbers as they stretch for the high first clip, in the roof, as well as provide a backup against any potential groundfall should the original first bolt fail. The applicant has spoken to the first ascentionist, Paul Glover, and he approves adding the lower first bolt.

Comments:

 No, do not add a bolt.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.

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New, Lower First Bolt, Short Attention Span, 11d, Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Description

We propose adding one new protection bolt between the ground and the current first bolt on Short Attention Span to protect against groundfalls.

Area

Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon

Detailed Description

Short Attention Span is located on the west face of Overhang Rock. The climb, a 5.11d and the easiest sport route on the wall, ascends the vertical, lichen-streaked face on the south end of the face. Short Attention Span’s first bolt is located approximately 25’ above the ground and involves unprotected 5.10 climbing to reach the clipping stance. Some of the holds below this first clip are less than bomber and could possibly snap. The landing zone consists of first hitting the lower-angled slab at the beginning of the pitch, and then a large, sharp flake with a wide crack and large boulders. A groundfall would most likely land a climber in the ER with bone-breaking injuries and/or lacerations. Such a potentially injurious runout is out of character with the remainder of the pitch, other sport-routes on the W Face of Overhang Rock and Flatirons, bolt-protected climbing in general. We have spoken with at least four people who have climbed the route, three of whom were leading and are 5.12-and-up climbers, and all strongly supported an additional bolt to protect against a groundfall. Some climbers competent at the grade choose not to lead Short Attention Span because of the risk.

We propose adding a bolt at approximately 16′ to avoid a groundfall — you would climb unprotected 5.8 to this point then the bolt would protect 5.10 face moves getting to the original first bolt. This addition will make the climb significantly safer and more enjoyable. It will also allow climbers at the 5.11 level at least one route at the crag they can climb safely. For those who are pursuing the other climbs on the wall, the extra bolt will make Short Attention Span a much nicer warm-up. The first ascent party approves of adding a new bolt.

Location of current first bolt on Short Attention Span.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments:

  

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

Voting Results: Approved

OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Login and post comments, or send your comments to fhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to.

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