GUIDEBOOK OF INSTALLED ROUTES

Here is a list of new or updated routes in the Flatirons since the FCC and OSMP began with the MOUs in 2003. Route details are in the posts below.

GREEN MOUNTAIN

Third Flatiron

*Direct West Face aka Western Skyline (5.11b; one or two pitches); FA: Roger Briggs, Dave Turner, Bill Briggs, Matt Samet, many others, 2009: A technical aesthetic, continually challenging climb directly up the lime-green arête on the west face of the Third, left of Saturday’s Folly. Begin on Saturday’s Folly for 20 feet, plug gear, then step left across the scoop to chase 5 bolts up the blunt arête. Move into a 5.10 finger crack (TCUs) through a bulge, then belay off hand-sized cams on a small ledge just above, or continue if linking pitches. From here, gear plus four bolts leads you up and slightly left, then out the big roof to finish on an exciting arête. Belay at the big ledge, then rap the normal descent; bring a standard rack up to hands (gold Camalot) size. Use longs lings if doing this as one pitch.

Direct West Face aka Western Skyline (5.11b)

DINOSAUR MOUNTAIN

Der Zerkle:

•Bar None (5.8); FA: David Turner and Terry Murphy, 2004: This is the leftmost route on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Begin about 20 feet left of What if You’re Not, following four bolts past fun huecos to a double-bolt anchor. The climbing is slightly easier if you finish left of the last bolt, around the arête.

•Feeling Lucky (5.10a); FA: Chris Archer, Al “Poncho” Torrisi, John Bragg, Monica Fitzgerald, 2012: This is the second bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Feeling Lucky starts down and right of the climb Bar None, described above. Climb a thin 5.9 section to a ledge. From here, fun jug hauling over a roof leads past the third bolt to a decision: head left directly up the bolt line on surprisingly good finger rails at 10- or head right on jugs that lower the difficulty. Five bolts total to a double-bolt anchor.

•Wing Ding (5.10c): This is the fourth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave and also home to Hot if You’re Not, What if You’re Not, etc. Begin on a moderate flake feature down and right of What If You’re Not to get established up to the break. From here, follow four bolts up gently overhanging hueco’ed rock on the right side of the pocket-studded headwall feature. Double-bolt anchors at the lip. This is a 2012 reinstall of an existing climb from 1989 that was subsequently chopped.

•Hot If You’re Not (5.11): This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the southwest face of Der Zerkle — the long hueco’ed wall facing the Mallory Cave. In 2012, the former first bolt, chopped at some point in the late 1980s, was reinstalled. It’s useful to stick-clip this bolt to protect the opening boulder-problem crux.

•Touch Monkey (5.11b): A new first bolt was added in 2012, doing away with a long runout off the ground to reach the former first bolt out in the roof.

Frankenstein’s Castle:

•Street Hassle (5.12c): A new first bolt was added in spring 2011, bringing the total bolt count on this existing climb (FA: Paul Glover, Hank Caylor; 1987) to five and doing away with the need for a stick clip of the high (former) first bolt.

Der Freischutz:

Jonathan Siegrist sending The Horn (5.13d); © Andy Mann.

•The Horn (5.13d); FA: Jonathan Siegrist: This six-bolt climb, on the northwest arete/prow of Der Freischutz, was installed in 2009 and freed in spring 2010. It features steepening 5.11 and 5.12 climbing up to a wild, exposed, very difficult boulder-problem on the steepest part of the overhang.

The Hand:

•Cardboard Cowboy (5.11c): A new final bolt was added to this existing climb (FA: Paul Glover, 1987) in autumn 2010, doing away with a 20-foot runout to the anchor and bringing the total bolt count to five.

Red Devil:

•Hell Freezes Over (pitch one: 10a; pitch two: 12a); FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding, Alan Higham, Nick Archer, 2004: This is the leftmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the obvious switchback staging area below the first pitch, along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. The first pitch is 95 feet and has 11 bolts, with the crux on the smooth lower slab (can be done at about 5.9 by stepping slightly right). Belay at or descend from double bolts. The crux second pitch starts off the big ledge and climbs past four bolts on the overhanging scoop to arête, with tough lock-offs to incut crimpers; finish far left at a double-bolt and chain anchor. You can rap the route, or scramble off left (west) from the ledge below the second pitch. Great position and views of Boulder!

•Paradise Lost (5.9); FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, 2006: This is the rightmost of two quality sport climbs on the south face of the Red Devil. Begin at the switchback staging area along the climber’s-access trail to The Box, Back Porch, etc. Follow nine bolts up a steep, featured face with cruxes coming over various bulges and negotiating left-leaning ramps. Descend from double bolts (60-meter rope mandatory). A good climb on sunny, cooler days or summer afternoons.

Dinosaur Rock:

Paul G toproping Pretty in Pinkler (12a).

•Pretty in Pinkler (5.11d); FA: Matt Samet, Paul Glover, 2011: This is the leftmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Eight bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the top of a little semi-detached spire. Begin by climbing onto a block at the base of the wall; clip high, step left, and move up the arete until a crux pocket traverse takes you back right along the hanging roof. From here move up fluted rock via crimpers as the angle eases off.

Nathan Fox on the cruxy upper half of The Shaft (5.12); © Lukas Hill

•The Shaft (5.12b); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, 2010: This is the second from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. Ten bolts take you to double-bolt anchors at the lip: sixty-meter rope MANDATORY. Begin below the big down-pointing flake, passing a nice finger pocket; move left into the groove then climb the steep face to a rest in a pod. From the pod, step left and ride the wild, pumpy, sustained “Shaft” tufa to the top of the wall.

•Patience Face (5.12a); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet (first lead: Derek Peavey) 2012: This is the third from the left of the five sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, down off the switchbacks along the Mallory Cave trail. It shares the first five bolts with The Shaft before stepping right onto the wide black streak/tufa feature, which it follows past another nine bolts all the way to the top of the wall. Various cruxes are interspersed with 5.10 and 5.11 climbing, as well as lots of “pod” rests. 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY. 14 bolts total to a double-bolt anchor. It’s helpful to put a long sling on the fifth bolt for rope drag, and to unclip the last bolt when lowering to keep your rope from rubbing.

•Milk Bone (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner, 2009: This is the third from the left of the four sport climbs on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Follow 11 bolts up a sustained, gently overhanging tufa-like feature and then step left to anchors at the lip of the wall. The first bolt is about 40 feet up as you step left onto the face proper from the fourth-class ramp. Sixty-meter rope MANDATORY and will just get you back to the staging/belay area (tie a knot in the end of your rope!). Good shady testpiece for the summer months.

Chris Weidner nails the toprope FA of Milke Bone (5.13a), Dinosaur Rock, 2008. This route was completed as a lead a year later, in June 2009 — the first sport climb on Dinosaur Rock.

•Ultrasaurus (aka Über-Pwnage (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, 2009: This is the rightmost sport climb on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right above the Mallory Cave trail. Begin as for Milk Bone, clipping its first two bolts to get onto the mid-wall ledge (unclip the first bolt once you’re into the second). Now stay right up the double-overhanging corner, turn the large roof, move up overhanging huecos to a rest, and then up the black-and-green streaked headawall. 16 clips total; 70-meter rope MANDATORY (and tie a knot in the end of it). The climb finishes right at the point of the wall/rock.

Ted Lanzano on Ultrasaurus (5.13b)

•Pink Man’s Burden (5.11+; two pitches); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, spring 2010: This is a two pitch sport line on the southwest side of Dinosaur Rock. Scramble around the eastern toe of Dinosaur Rock then head along its south face, to a good ledge on the far left side of the face. Move up easy-fifth class ramps and step right onto a ledge (0.5 Camalot/Metolius No. 3 helpful for rope management), then head up the steep, left-trending chocolate-colored band into the hanging bombay slot; pull up and in, and then continue left (5.8) along the west face of the rock via pods to a two-bolt belay. It’s helpful to pre-clip the second bolt on this pitch.

The second pitch (pre-clip the first bolt off the belay) climbs up the wildly overhanging but nicely featured, pocketed headwall. End at anchors at the lip. With a 70-meter rope, you can rappel from the top anchors back to the staging area below the route.

Paul Glover atop the first pitch, Pink Man’s Burden (5.11+), Dinosaur Rock.

•Tracks Are for Kids (5.10): FA: as a toprope, unknown; as a lead, Steve Annecone: Tracks Are for Kids is the left of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb five bolts past consistently overhanging huecos to a new set of anchors at the lip, installed March 2012 to replace the existing, rusty-chain anchors. Very fun climbing!

•Big Bob Cranks (5.9+): This is the middle of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb four bolts up the steep, hueco’ed face to a new, lower set of anchors at the lip of the wall (or continue past the original fifth bolt, up and over the slab, to the anchors on Tracks Are for Kids). Hardware updated and new anchor installed in spring 2012.

•Triceratops Tracks (5.10+); This is the rightmost of the three bolted lines on the overhanging, west-facing hueco’ed fin of rock on the west-southwest side of the Dinosaur Rock formation. To get here, hike up into the notch below the west side of Dinosaur Rock, then pick your way down the  gully that leads south into Bear Canyon; take care to stay on rock slabs to mitigate erosion. Climb three bolts past overhanging fins to anchors over the lip. Hardware and anchors updated in spring 2012.

BEAR PEAK

Seal Rock

•Choose Life (5.14a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2012 (toprope: 2002): This is a 30-meter pitch midway along the south face of Seal Rock, and climbs an obvious wide black streak up a consistently overhanging wall past 13 bolts to a double-bolt anchor over the final bulge, on the slab. Long/extendo draws are useful down low and on a few other clips for rope drag and stancing. Also useful: A Metolius 6 (green, or No. 1 Camalot) between the second and third bolts, and a Metolius 2 (yellow, or a yellow C3) between bolts three and four—at least your first time through the route before long draws are hanging.

•North Face Rappel Route (Sea of Joy): The often-used north-face rappel route, down the three-pitch climb Sea of Joy, has been updated (11/12) with stainless-steel hardware. Work completed by Terry Murphy. Info below:

• P1 anchor – bolts and hangers (2 each)
• P2 anchor – bolts (2); one hanger with double rappel rings, one hanger with quick-links and chain.
• P3 – bolts and hangers (2 each); two existing chains and quick-links reattached to new bolts and hangers.

The P3 anchor is the standard summit rappel (162’ to ground). The P2 anchor (112’ to ground or 100’ with downclimbing) is used by parties rapping with one 60m rope—knotted rope-ends highly advised! The P1 anchors are off to the side of the rappel line, and hence were not updated with rappel hardware.

Ted Lanzano on Choose Life (5.14a), south face of Seal Rock, autumn 2012.

The Slab:

•Film Noir (5.12c/d); FA: Chris Beh, 2009-2011: This is 30-meter (60-meter rope MANDATORY), 13-bolt face climb up a beautiful black streak on the north face of the Slab, 25 feet right of Just Another Boy’s Climb. Six bolts of slab climbing (5.10+) take you to a small stance below the obvious overhanging headwall and the streak, which climbs past seven more bolts to the top.

Film Noir (5.12c/d), showing the lower slab and amazing black streak.

The crux, a heigh-dependent reach/pop/leap, comes at the base of the steep rock as you enter the streak, and then leads into sustained 5.12- climbing up the headwall.

•Shalosh (5.12a); FA: Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg, 2009: This is the nine-bolt route up the northeast-facing buttress/pillar immediately left of Family Man, on the north face of The Slab. Climb up a steepening slab to a roof encounter (5.11) to a small stance at a finger seam (small TCUs here). Move up to the base of the pillar, and then crank up ever-more difficult terrain past four bolts to a crux getting to the anchor on slopey sidepulls. A demanding, technical route.

•Family Man (5.12a+); FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008: This is the long, pumpy route through multiple tiers of roofs left of the 1980s 5.12 Boys with Power Toys. It can be identified by red-brown hangers, and starts behind a small pine tree. Climb a slab up to and through the first roof (5.11), hang on tightly for the crux second roof, negotiate more overhanging terrain, and finish up a black headwall on quality stone to double-bolt anchors. 60-meter rope mandatory. A classic for the grade.

•s00krEEm (5.13b); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano, Paul Glover, 2008; top anchors and two directionals installed by Chris Beh and Kurt Smith, 1988: s00krEEm is basically the first climb you come to when approaching The Slab on the climbers’ trail. It climbs past nine bolts on a rainbow-streaked, bulging wall on the right side of The Slab’s north face. 5.11 face climbing leads to a sustained boulder problem out the bulge, to more crimpy face moves on a headwall; finish out the big roof to an easier slab, to double-bolt anchors.

Ted Lanzano nails his redpoint on the FA day for sOOkrEEm (5.13b), the Slab – November 2008

•k00kEEz n’ krEEm (5.12+/13-); FA: Ted Lanzano, Matt Samet, 2009: Find this climb as the north face blends into the west, wrapping uphill and right; it’s about 50 feet left of the 5.11d Whipping Post. Climb 12 bolts up the clean, monolithic face to a looming summit roof (60-meter rope mandatory!). The bouldery, crimpy, temperature-dependent crux comes down low, followed by more quality face climbing and a 5.12 finish.

•Prime the Pump (5.12c); FA: Matt Samet ,Greg Belinski, 2012: This is the leftmost route on the “Undertow” headwall, the big overhang on the west face of the Slab. Can be done in two pitches, or one pitch with a 60m rope—long slings and some unclipping as you go are helpful. The first pitch is 5.11+ with six bolts, and the second pitch is 5.12c with seven bolts. Each pitch has its own anchor. The first pitch begins on a low arete right on the approach trail along the west face of the Slab; the second pitch rails right along a big flake feature to a black streak to finish.

The line of the route Prime the Pump.

•Pen 15 (5.12a/13a); FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner: This is a two-pitch climb up the left-central part of the Slab’s very overhanging west face, about 50 feet right of the corner where Whipping Post starts. The entire climb is only 30 meters long, but it’s still best to break it into two pitches, for rope management and drag. Pitch one (5.12a; seven bolts): Start at the big undercling crack and move out the dark-purple bulge, passing three bolts. Head right on the ledge, then engage an overhanging bucket haul past four more bolts to an anchor over the lip. Pitch two (5.13b; seven bolts): A hard boulder problem starts the big swell, followed by more crimping and right-slanting moves on diagonal rails. Anchors up and left of the big pothole at the lip.

•s00pr kr33m (5.13a); FA: Matt Samet, Ted Lanzano: This is a 10-bolt, single-pitch climb about 50 feet left of Undertow, up a very overhanging panel on the broad west face of the Slab. A 70-meter rope is MANDATORY and you might possibly want some small TCUs (to finger size) and a wired nut or two for the opening slab (5.7), though this can be avoided by walking out the ledge from Undertow and dropping your rope down to your belayer, on the ground. From the ledge, climb a short corner past three bolts to a perplexing lip encounter, then a nice stance. From here, seven more bolts of climbing take you up the ever-steepening, ever-cruxier headwall to anchors at the lip.

•Sweet Niblitz (5.12d); FA: Matt Samet, Rui Ferreira, Paul Glover, 2008: This is the overhanging wall just right of Undertow, on the west face of The Slab, beginning about 10 feet right. Pre-clip the first bolt and engage a tough, shouldery boulder problem followed by 8 more bolts of pumpy 5.12a climbing. The route flows better if you stay left of the bolts through the middle third, though it can be done on the right. Finish at double-bolt anchors up and right.

Greg B on the opening-sequence crux of Sweet Niblitz (5.12d), the Slab

Greg B finishing up the last face section on Sweet Niblitz (5.12d), the Slab

•Hippopotamus (5.10d); FA: Paul Glover, Matt Samet, Kevin Riley, 2009: This is the short (50 feet; 5 bolts) climb on the ledge right of Sweet Niblitz. Stand high on the ledge, clip the first bolt, layback the big flake, then move into pumpy, juggy territory and up into the black scoop to finish. Anchors are over the final ledge. A great moderate and a good warm-up for the harder stuff at the Slab.

Pink Man’s Burden, 5.11

Dinosaur Rock, Southwest Face
Application date: 9/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (two pitches) is on the Southwest Face of Dinosaur Rock. It will climb a left-leaning traverse (5.9) on pitch one past four bolts and traditional gear to a double-bolt belay below an overhanging huecoed wall. The second pitch (5.11) will climb the huecoed wall past six bolts to a double-bolt anchor, from which you can rappel to the leaning slab below.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. It is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection on both pitches. The route offers traditional gear only along some parts of pitch one, with no other traditional/natural gear placements otherwise on either pitch. The proposal, then, is to use four stainless-steel half-inch bolts (and the trad gear) plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch one; and six stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch two. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts with a 5.9 corner to more 5.8/5.9 climbing on the left-diagonalling traverse. After much inspection, applicant determined the traverse was the best (most solid) way to access the headwall on pitch two, as the rock directly below pitch two, in the overhanging slot, is irredeemably friable. The second pitch is pumpy, featured, hueco’ed climbing (sustained 5.11) on a gently overhanging red/brown wall.

The route offers sunny, exposed 5.11 climbing on a scenic feature high above Bear Canyon. Climbers will be able to, once completing the second pitch, scramble back out the slab and then circle back around Dinosaur Rock on Mallory Cave Trail to their packs. The staging area below pitch on is a rock ledge accessed by hiking/scrambling around the south side of Dinosaur Rock, on slabs, from the Mallory Cave Trail.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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New Bolt on Cardboard Cowboy, 5.11c

Dinosaur Mountain, The Hand
Application date: 9/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The applicant proposes to add one bolt route to the existing route Cardboard Cowboy, located on the south face of The Hand, Dinosaur Mountain. This would be the final bolt on the climb before reaching the anchors and will eliminate the current 20-foot, 5.11a runout to the anchors. The first ascentionist has granted approval to install the bolt that is being proposed here.

The first ascentionist has also received negative feedback concerning the current runout and long-fall potential, which entails a potentially dangerous fall (30’ fall only 40’ off the ground).

In light of the difficulty level of the unprotected terrain relative to the route’s overall difficulty, the applicant and other climbers who have climbed the route suggest the addition of the proposed bolt. There is no option for traditional gear to protect this area. The route was initially installed on rappel.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
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The Shaft, 5.12b

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (90 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and starts 40 feet down and to climber’s left of the existing route Milk Bone (the first climb approved on the formation). It shares its start with the existing toprope Patience Face but where the latter climb moves right, The Shaft goes straight up on an extruded tufa-like feature.

The route has been red-pointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers only one marginal C3 placement, used as a TR directional, in friable rock down low, with no other traditional/natural gear placements, and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use 9 or 10 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts with a 5.11/11+ sequence to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest (where Patience Face moves right). The upper half of the climb engages the tufa via gymnastic movement (5.12) on large, sloping holds on overhanging rock, finishing via easier face climbing (5.10/11) toward the top of the wall. The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

The route offers shady 5.12 climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with Milk Bone, already approved.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

Pretty in Pinkler, 5.11c

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (60 feet) is on lower left side (east) of the North Face of the Dinosaur Rock, climbing grey-green stone to the apex of a small pillar formation on that part of the face. The crux is turning the lip of a small bowl at one-third height, but the route is sustained throughout, and never easier than 5.10.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers zero traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use circa 7 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will likely go at the point of the pillar, but if the rock there proves to be too hollow, it will need to be situated either above the ledge formed by the pillar (for rope drag) or slightly lower on the pillar horn itself, possibly a hair to climber’s right. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts out off a small block/ledge and jumps right into sustained crimping, largely on solid incuts. The first two or three bolts will need to be spaced closely here, to protect against ledge fall. The route then moves slightly right into a bowl and encounters the crux, getting up and over the bowl’s lip. From there, sustained 5.10+/11- climbing takes you on wavy stone to the top of the pillar. The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

The route offers sustained 5.11 without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly above the same staging area as the new route Milk Bone and the applied-for route The Shaft, directly off Mallory Cave trail.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

New 5.13c, Dinosaur Rock, North Face

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (120 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, taking the major line of strength from the toe of the wall to the summit of the formation. The applicant has spent one day on the route, trying it on toprope, but gave up due to the severely overhanging nature of the wall creating an injurious, nearly lethal (tree-branch-impalement) swing off the climb.

During this exploratory session, the applicant climbed the middle third of the route, from the lip of the big roof halfway up the headwall, at 5.12-, and was able, hanging on the rope, to inspect the rest of the line and to ascertain that it is possible as a free climb.

The route will begin on the first two bolts of Milk Bone to the rounded boss ledge. From there, it moves right up the double-overhanging, right-leaning corner for 30 feet (estimated: 5.12+), under the roof band. Applicant, hanging on the rope, was able to see a solid set of holds leading out and over the lip at V7/8 (5.13/13+) to better pocket-holes, from where he freed the next 40 feet at 5.12-. Stepping right into the scoop high on the headwall, the route will continue in the black streak (featured, with small holds) that runs straight down from the apex of the wall, finishing at double-bolt anchors just left of the point. The estimated difficulty on this upper section is 5.12+/13-.

The climb will be an endurance undertaking, given that it probably overhangs 40 feet in 120. Some loose rock will need to be removed on the overhanging corner to make the climb safe. Applicant proposes installing top anchors and 5 or 6 directional bolts (using removable Triplex bolts) to be able to safely try the line on toprope, clean the holds, and ascertain the best and safest line of ascent. Once that’s clear, he’ll install the rest of the hardware (total clips, likely 14, including the first two on Milk Bone) and attempt a lead.

The route offers wildly sustained, overhanging climbing on one of Dinosaur Mountain’s major features. It will be a modern testpiece, given its “rope-stretching” length, and a good endurance undertaking for hotter weather. The staging area will be the same as for Milk Bone, a platform in the trees just off the Mallory Cave Trail. There is no possibility for reliable natural protection, and the applicant proposes using all-stainless half-inch hardware.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending

Pen 15, 5.12a

The Slab, West Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Route Information Since Installation
Nine bolts to a double-bolt anchor.

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (65 feet) is on the West Face of the Slab and starts approximately 40 feet right of Whipping Post on the very overhanging west face. Application this cycle is for pitch 1 of a proposed two-pitch route.

Pitch one has been redpointed on toprope at 5.12-. The opening sequence stands up into a long undercling arch before moving left, directly out a boulder problem through the overhanging band. Easier climbing leads up and right to the large ledge, above which the climber engages more boulder-problem cruxes interspersed with giant jugs on the overhanging wall to a finishing point at the midway ledge on the wall.

The rock quality is excellent throughout, with some loose rock that needs to be removed from the two ledges (lower ledge and midway). The route will require 7 or 8 bolts on this first pitch, with no opportunity for reliable natural gear. This is a physical, very overhanging addition to this back (west) side of the Slab, and the first line that has been tried/freed on this major part of the wall. Having the first pitch in will add another quality 5.12- to the cliff, as well as provide much-needed access to the upper headwall, which will hold more difficult climbs in the future. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines. The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

Hippopatamus, 5.10+

The Slab, West Face
Application date: 6/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (50 feet) is on the far right side of the West Face of the Slab, starting off the right side of the
belay ledge for Undertow, about 30 feet right of Undertow. It climbs solid, gently overhanging black rock on jug holds.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The only natural gear placement is possibly a hand-sized or larger cam deep behind the layback flake, between the location of the proposed first and second bolts now. The disadvantages to not bolting this section are: the flake is thin and the cam could fail or break the lip in a fall; if the cam were to be the first piece on the route, you¹d need to climb up, through hard moves, 10 feet off the exposed ledge to place the piece; and the layback nature of the moves makes it very difficult to see behind the flake to size the piece. The advantage to placing the first bolt would be: adequate protection off the exposed ledge, with a bolt in solid rock out right of the flake.

The proposal is to use five-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will be at the top of the overhanging section of the wall, where the main difficulties end ­ the climbing above here is 5.4 for 15 feet and higher anchors would not be good on a rope while lowering.

The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean. The route offers sustained, outstanding 5.10+ climbing at a wall (the Slab) that currently has no good warm-ups. The staging area would be the Undertow Ledge.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

K00kEEz and KrEEm, 5.12+

W Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the West face of the Slab and is located approximately 40 feet right of the existing climb S00krEEm, and 50 feet left of the Whipping Post.  It climbs straight up the maroon, tan, and grey rock.

Length:            Approximately 90 feet in length.
Name:              K00kEEz and KrEEm
Rating:                        5.13a
Protection: 12 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

The route has been red-pointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.  The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles) and are shown in red on the attached photo. There is also a pair of in situ (but hangerless) bolts right where the route finishes, indicating someone must have drilled these anchors 20 years ago, before the bolting ban; these are marked in green on the photo. The climb showed no signs of activity other than these two bolts.

The proposal is to use 12 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors (placed before the ban) where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

Route Description:
The climb begins on overhang terrain for the first 3 bolts, with the technical crux on thin crimps turning the lip, to reach the fourth bolt. More difficult face climbing follows until the angle begins to ease off. This slabbier climbing leads to a final roof (and 2 more clips), with another crux (5.12) to the existing anchors.  The rock quality is excellent in general with an iron-hard veneer. The climb would then have 10 bolts total up the lower face, and two out the final bulge.

The route offers varied, outstanding climbing on nearly perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base.  It is accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy’s Climb, Family Man, Boys with Power Toys and S00krEEm.  The staging area – a talusy area at the base of the cliff – would not experience additional impact from the route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:

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I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “K00kEEz & KrEEm” on The Slab.

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I have hiked up and looked at “k00kEEz and KrEEm”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.

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Film Noir, 5.12c/d

NW Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09

Information from the applicant:

The proposed route is on the northwest face of the Slab and begins 15 feet right of Just Another Boys Climb. It climbs an independent line and finishes at a natural end spot at the very top of the wall. The route is approximately 95 feet long.

Length:            approximately 95 feet.
Name:              Film Noir
Rating:                        5.12 c/d
Protection:   14 protection bolts and a 2-bolt anchor

Route Description:
This route climbs an independent and aesthetic line on generally solid rock up a prominent black streak in the middle of the Slab’s northwest face. It starts on the moderate slab apron right of Just Another Boys Climb. 5.7 climbing past the first bolt (20 feet up) leads to a 5.10 bulge at bolts 2 and 3. The angle eases for a few moves, leading to another bulge and a 5.11a/b crux at bolts 5 and 6. Again the angle eases for a few moves, allowing a rest and a 7th clip before confronting the route’s crux at bolts 8 and 9. From here, the climbing stays sustained — with multiple 5.11 and 5.11+ cruxes — and gently overhanging until the anchors. From the final jug, at the lip of the wall and with the 14th bolt at your feet, it will be possible to reach up and clip the chains before mantling onto lesser-angled terrain. The top out is similar to Boys Climb, in that the most-proper free ascent involves climbing up over the lip before weighting the anchors.

This route climbs over part of an old project first attempted by Fred Knapp and Bret Ruckman in 1989, with three bolts leading rightward from Boys Climb and an anchor at the top of the wall. Knapp and Ruckman’s rightmost bolt lies between the 12th and 13th bolt proposed here, and will need to be removed if Film Noir is approved. Their old bolted anchor lies about six feet right of where Film Noir, the logical route on this part of the wall, tops out; applicant proposes removing this anchor (Film Noir was toproped off gear) and installing a new one.

The lower half of the climb, which negotiates two bulges with slabby/rampy terrain below each, needs 7 bolts to eliminate the possibility of decking on the respective slabs. The headwall also has 7 bolts — about the same as the neighboring Boy’s Climb, which has 6 bolts and 2 pins.

This is an excellent, independent route on solid rock, climbing up the prominent and aesthetic black streak right of Boy’s Climb. There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route, and the staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy’s Climb, Family Man, s00krEEm, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.

The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall, at the top straightening out the abandoned Knapp/Ruckman project, and does not encroach on any existing routes. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear throughout, making bolts the best and only lead-protection option.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:

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I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Film Noir” on The Slab.

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I have hiked up and looked at “Film Noir”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.

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I support the addition of Film Noir to the North Face of The Slab as specified in the application. This section of the cliff has great climbing and has quickly become a destination onto itself in the Flatirons due to the high concentration of quality climbs.  This route does not encroach on the adjacent lines.

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